Which metal should you choose when making jewellery? I’m a big advocate for using platinum in jewellery as prices have gone up for gold and also because platinum is a “true” white metal. Whereas white gold will always have the tendency to go back to its true yellow origin. Let's discuss the differences between the two...
Twist ring in 18k WHITE GOLD with a 0.60ct centre round natural diamond and diamonds on the band.
I have created multiple jewellery pieces in platinum as customers were hesitating between the two metals. For more classic pieces such as trilogy or solitaire I would gravitate more towards platinum, as it’s a less malleable metal than gold it makes sense to use it for more “static” jewellery pieces, or jewellery which needs to be reinforced because the lifestyle of the wearer needs it.
Furthermore, for earrings I would recommend white gold, as the wear and tear is minimal (no need to rhodium plate it as time goes by) and it will be lighter (as less dense than Platinum). When it comes to earrings, comfort and wearability are my prime concern, so I tend to stay away from platinum when making them.
Bridge Ring in 18k WHITE GOLD with a centre natural oval diamond and diamonds on the band in a fishtail setting.
Here’s an overview below of the key distinctions between these two popular metals.
Color and Composition
Platinum: A naturally white metal, maintaining its colour without additional treatment. Generally, with a composition of 95% pure in the UK.
White Gold: Naturally yellow, white gold is achieved by alloying gold with white metals like silver, nickel, or palladium. This process not only changes the colour but also enhances the metal’s strength.
Rhodium Plating: White gold is often plated with rhodium, a platinum-group metal, to achieve a bright white finish similar to platinum. Over time, this plating can wear off, requiring re-plating to maintain its appearance.
Trilogy PLATINUM ring with a 3ct round brilliant cut natural diamond with two tapered baguettes.
Durability and Maintenance
Platinum: Known for its hardness, platinum is resistant to dents and scratches. It develops a natural patina over time, which can enhance the brilliance of diamonds. Scratches on platinum merely displace metal rather than remove it, allowing easy restoration by polishing.
White Gold: While softer than platinum, the alloys added to white gold improve its durability. 14K white gold, with its higher alloy content, is more resistant to scratches compared to 18K white gold. However, polishing white gold gradually reduces its mass, and re-rhodium plating is needed to maintain its white finish.
Malleability
Platinum’s lower malleability makes it ideal for securing diamonds with sturdy settings.
White gold is more malleable, making it easier to shape into various designs.
Cost Considerations
Rarity and Density: Platinum’s scarcity and density make it more expensive than gold. It is 95% pure compared to 75% purity in 18K gold and 58.3% in 14K gold.
Weight: Platinum’s density results in heavier jewellery, which adds to its cost. Conversely, white gold’s lighter weight makes it a more budget-friendly option.
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